To avoid invasion, it is best to feed your colony only with insects that have been bred at home or purchased from trusted pet stores. If the disease is already raging, it follows:
- timely removal of garbage and leftover fodder plants (adult mites live and reproduce in food debris),
- introduction of ticks to the formicarium - predatory ticks of the genus Hypoaspis, centipedes and springtails.
As mentioned above, the administration of natural insects to pets is highly undesirable. Use feed cockroaches, crickets, and other traditional forage crops to eliminate the possibility of parasite infestation. You must be prepared for a varied diet of the ants and, if necessary, remove one crop, immediately replacing another (if Harpegnathos refuse). Some families are very picky about their food choices, so you will have to search for their favorite foods by choosing from the many available. Forage insects should be selected in size smaller than or equal to the hunter, and also easily pass through the entrance opening to the nest. It is advisable to give them alive or slightly crushed. Thanks to the special device of the jaws, Harpegnathos cannot cut their prey to pieces, but only tear off the limbs (the larvae do the rest of the butcher's work), so they cannot bring large victims into the anthill.
Being true poneromorphs, these ants require daily feeding for normal development. A colony of about 20 specimens is enough for 1-2 young (1 cm long) Turkmen cockroaches per day. The more ants and larvae in the family, the more food it should receive. These ants are fed exclusively on insects; freely available carbohydrates are contraindicated. With enough food, the larvae secrete droplets of fluid for adults, which compensates for their need for many substances that they do not receive from protein feed, therefore a colony that has brood at all stages feels much better than one with no larvae or no larvae. several of them.
To maintain a colony of Harpegnathos, a formicarium that will keep moisture for a long time is essential. Ideally, the nest should be made entirely of plaster or layers of plaster. If the formicarium provides separate moistening of the chambers, it is even better, because the ants store the cocoons in less humid chambers, and the eggs and larvae in more humid chambers.
Our "Venos" nest is suitable for these ants: a layer of plaster allows you to maintain the necessary humidity (up to a week), and the height of the horizontal chambers allows you to lay the ground layer.
A substrate is required for all ponchos - with its help, the ants help the larvae weave a cocoon. Coconut flakes, chopped sphagnum moss, sand (or a mixture of all these ingredients) are suitable. In the future, the ants will be able to remove all the substrate from the chambers and use the broken shells of old cocoons for pupation.
The Venator family can live in a wide temperature range (from + 18 to +32 degrees Celsius), but the most convenient will be +24 - +27 degrees. It takes about three months to develop from egg to imago. With a comfortable temperature, frequent and varied feeding and a large number of workers, this period is slightly shortened due to the faster course of the larval phase.
The structure of the arena should be discussed separately. It is recommended to cover the bottom with a layer of moist coconut substrate. You can arrange decorations, bunches of moss to maintain a stable humidity. Vision plays a huge role in the life of Harpegnathos, so the arena can be illuminated with a not very bright lamp so that it is convenient to watch and the ants hunt. Despite some substantive difficulties, venators are very interesting, beautiful, graceful and extremely peculiar ants. They always watch you with formicaria with their big eyes. Some time will pass - and the Venators will get used to you, they won't run away, just turn their heads and wave their belly amiably.