Dinomyrmex gigas

This is about as imposing as kept ants get. The giant forest ant pairs enormous body size with dramatic polymorphism, so a mature colony shows a clear sweep from large workers up to hulking soldiers, and the whole nest makes an immediate impression. It is nocturnal but switches to round-the-clock activity once the colony passes around fifty workers. None of this comes easily: brood develops slowly, the humidity demands are exacting, and with a queen that can live some 20-25 years it is a serious long-term commitment. That puts it at the top Crazy tier, best for a dedicated keeper who wants a showpiece and will see it through. It has no sting, just a defensive bite.

A sugar-dominated omnivore on a giant scale: in the wild honeydew makes up the great bulk of the diet, so this colony lives largely on liquid carbohydrates, taking insects and other protein to build its slow-developing brood. Keep sugar always available and add protein for the larvae.

★★★ readily · ★★ moderately · ★ occasionally · ✗ not eaten

These giants need room, so cramped chambers will not do for ants measuring up to 39 mm. Found the colony in a large humid test tube or starter nest, then move it into a roomy moisture-holding nest, ytong or hybrid kept high at 70-85%, paired with a large arena. Upgrade as this slow-growing colony expands toward its ceiling. A robust fluon (PTFE), oil, or talc-and-water barrier is a must for such powerful nocturnal foragers. ANTonTOP formicaria and kits include large-format humid setups suited to this species, with space to grow into.

Keep the nest at 24-27 °C and the arena at 25-29 °C, with high humidity of 70-85% in the nest and 60-75% in the arena. Heat one side only for a gradient and mist to hold the upper humidity range. There is no hibernation for this tropical ant; keep conditions stable all year while it forages by night.

Growth is slow, with brood taking roughly 10-15 weeks to develop and the colony building over months and years toward 2,000 workers, so patience is essential. The result is a hugely polymorphic colony of giant workers and soldiers. You receive a queen with her workers and brood at the colony’s current stage.

• It is the only species in its genus, given the name Dinomyrmex after being moved out of Camponotus, where it was long known as Camponotus gigas.
• In its forests it is mostly a honeydew farmer, tending sap-feeding bugs such as cicadas for their sugar, and even gathering bird droppings, with insects making up only a small part of what it eats.
• It works the ground at dusk and climbs into the canopy to forage through the night, an unusually large ant living a largely nocturnal life.
• It carries no sting and defends itself with a powerful bite, fitting for an ant of this size.
• Its nuptial flights follow a roughly six-month rhythm and take off at dusk, and queens are reported to live for two decades or more.

Is the giant forest ant Dinomyrmex gigas good for beginners?

No. It is rated Crazy difficulty, with slow growth, high humidity needs and great size, so it is for advanced, committed keepers.

Does Dinomyrmex gigas need a winter rest?

No. It is tropical and active all year, foraging by night; keep it warm and humid through winter.

Does it sting?

No. It has no sting, but it delivers a painful bite, so handle the colony with respect.

How big can the colony get?

Up to 2,000 workers in a mature single-queen colony.

How big does the giant forest ant get?

The queen is a giant 29-39 mm, with soldiers at 23-32 mm and workers at 18-24 mm.

How fast does it grow?

Slowly. Brood takes about 10-15 weeks to develop, and the colony builds over months and years; the queen can live 20-25 years.

What does it eat?

Insects such as crickets and flies for protein plus sugar water or nectar/jelly for energy; it does not take seeds.

Will it arrive alive?

You receive a queen, workers and brood with a heat or cool pack, shipped within 24 h with tracking to keep this large colony safe in transit.

Escape prevention. Coat the inner rim of every open arena with fluon (PTFE), or use talc-and-water or an oil barrier as a backup, and keep a tight, fine-mesh lid on top. Check the barrier regularly, since dust, condensation and feeding debris break a fluon line over time. Keep tubing connectors tight and seal any gaps in the nest.

Keeping reminders. Always offer fresh water and never let the nest dry out completely. Give carbohydrates continuously and protein a few times a week, and remove uneaten insect prey within 24 hours before it moulds. Keep the formicarium out of direct sunlight and away from constant vibration, which stresses a young colony. A water-filled test tube plugged with cotton makes an ideal spare incubator whenever you need one.

Before you buy – do not rehouse too early. Have a test-tube setup or a small formicarium with an outworld and a working barrier ready before your colony arrives. A founding colony grows slowly at first, which is normal. Moving a small colony into a large nest too soon invites mould, mites and stress, and the workers die off one by one. Keep the colony in its open test tube on the arena, plug the nest entrance with cotton, and open up the next chambers only once the colony fills roughly 10-15% of the space.

What we ship. Every colony ships with a live-arrival guarantee, backed by our 24h unboxing-video guarantee: if the queen does not arrive alive, we reship free. Parcels travel with DHL, InPost (PL) or EMS, with a heat or cold pack to suit the season, packed discreetly and securely. We ship across the EU and worldwide, with free shipping over the Europe threshold.